Your Eyewitness is mighty chuffed at our green passport acquiring another distinction – we can now get a Saudi e-visa – or visa-on-arrivalb- without needing the blessings of an American, British or Schengen visa!! But before we start packing as though Riyadh is just another branch of Richmond Hill, he better explain the (Saudi) house rules!!
Let’s start with the suitcase where we better leave behind the El Dorado, Banks beer or anything that contains alcohol – like vanilla extract!! So while we may be proud of our Black Cake and wanna show it off, if you’ve “spiced it up with the obligatory spirits, you better leave it home!! Now we probably know that we cant take in any pork or pork products – so that means leaving behind any Back Pudding home – both for being pork and having blood!! Pornographic material is verboten and even your electronic devices may be inspected for smut!!
And believe it or not, leave the nutmeg home!! Yep, nutmeg!! Saudi customs explicitly lists whole nutmeg and its powder among prohibited passenger imports!! Granny’s innocent little spice has graduated from her kitchen cupboard to the customs blacklist!!. Imagine explaining: “Officer, is only fuh me custard.” Somewhere between Timehri and Riyadh, dessert seasoning became an international incident!! Seems that nutmeg has some kinda narcotic effects!!
Certain unregistered medicinal and herbal preparations are also prohibited – so that mysterious bottle Auntie says “good fuh everything” requires more investigation than Auntie’s endorsement!! Then there’s your wardrobe – no body hugging or hip hugging pants or dress – just loose clothing covering the elbows and extending below the knees for men and women!! Foreign women no longer need neither an abaya nor a hair covering – but do retire the Mashramani costume and the vest advertising your entire chest!!
Your behaviouralso needs packing instructions as well – you gotta avoid public affection, swearing, rude gestures and loud music!! Public demonstrations are illegal and those fellas who believe their car stereo should entertain three villages will discover his cultural contribution is unappreciated!! Romance also has fine print so while unmarried tourists may share hotel rooms – remember sex outside marriage remains illegal!! Same-sex sexual acts and relationships are criminalized and transgender people and cross-dressers face serious legal risks since the tourist visa doesn’t erase the criminal code!!
Private non-Muslim worship is accepted but public practice – like Phagwa playing and gospel-singing – are prohibited. Photographing government buildings, military installations, diplomatic premises and palaces is illegal – and you better obtain people’s consent before photographing them!! Political criticism – including social-media posts – can bring severe punishment so you gotta give our national pastime of cussing the authorities a rest!!
Our passport may’ve gained access – our rum, roadside manners and nutmeg haven’t! Pack accordingly.

…foreign relations
Your Eyewitness was recently reminded by a Chicago Tribune column on Venezuela that small countries should always ask why a great power has suddenly become pleased with them!! The answer may be flattering but it’s seldom sentimental!! The article argues that Washington has secured a cooperative government and valuable economic concessions, while Venezuelans still await meaningful political freedom.
For us, enjoying the attention that accompanies petroleum – plus the US’ position on the border controversy – that distinction deserves more than a passing glance. There are sound reasons to cultivate Washington – investment, access to finance, security cooperation and diplomatic support!! These can strengthen us against a threatening neighbour – and hopefully, government critics aren’t proposing we conduct foreign policy by standing on the seawall shouting defiance at passing American aircraft!
But friendship requires a clear understanding of interests – America pursues American interests and Guyana gotta pursue Guyanese interests!!
Sometimes, when the visiting delegation arrives, this elementary principle can get lost between the welcoming remarks and the photograph!!

…for Cayenne
Seems that Saudi ain’t the only horizon opening to us – we’ve just had a designated air carrier going twice weekly to French Guiana!! And no…it’s not to take miscreants to Devil’s Island!! That’s closed!!